PLAN OF THE DAY

Friends,

It's been a long time since I posted something. So thanks for your patience. My job takes me to some pretty weird places around the globe and I'm gone for stretches at a time. But..hey..I wanted to share this with you. Some time ago, I was looking for a good pair of hiking boots - I really don't have anything that...well..tough, if you know what I mean. So I called Leather Soul in Hawaii. The guy there suggested I get some Russell Mocassins. Russell what? This company has been making shoes and boots out of Wisconsin for a long time. I ordered the Premier Chukka Boot in Rust Chamois Leather . Ok. So you take their catalogue, follow the directions on how to measure your feet, submit this form with payment and voila...! I love these things and I get the feeling this is the beginning of beautiful music. Enjoy.

BESPOKE COBBLERS - FLORENCE

Some of you have visited these bespoke shoemakers so this is nothing new for you. But what I value is current information. In your bespoke decision, factor in travel costs, shipping and customs (if applicable). These cobblers frequently travel to big cities so you can get measured there and then do a follow-up visit for a fitting. Most of them want a fitting before they go smooth. Immediatley below:

Roberto Ugolini. Bespoke from 950 euros (lasts are included in this price as I am told. Shipping, etc. extra). Use common sense. Of course exotics are more - alligator, croc, etc. Very nice and accomodating. Reasonable deposit. I jut got a good vibe from this guy.Website does not do him justice. Sample bespoke models blew me away. Here he is working below with his Japanese apprentice (the other female apprentice was really pretty). Hey, you know.

Sample Ugolini bespoke:

Mannina is a Florence institution and many of its residents have been buying their shoes at his shop for decades. Like most, two locations - bespoke and TRW. In the retail shop, expect to pay around 295-395 Euros per pair RTW. Sadly, I didn't see anything I liked and I was ready to buy. Besides, the clerk in the retail (the son?) completely ignored us. Mr. Mannina had to step out and the Japanese apprentices couldn't give me a price for bespoke.

We ate at a great restaurant by Stefano Bemer's shop and had the chance to chat with him for awhile. Bespoke at 1800 euros plus 300 for lasts plus incidentals. He really wanted me to place an order right there, but honestly, again, this might seem strange, nothing inspired me and I had the money (for once in my life). This is a big business and I think personally I'm looking for a smaller, artisan-based experience. All of these shops were dead. I'm telling you, people are hurting. PLEASE post your Florence bespoke shoe experiences. I'm going with Ugolini.

MORE EASTER WEEKEND - FLORENCE 2010

I'm not too familiar with MORESCHI, perhaps you are and could add a litle something to this post. I see them sometimes on Ebay and I really loved this model at their boutique in Florence. Beautiful lines on this loafer. Sweet. Oh, uh, for the price list you'll need a dictionary. Hey, it's a free blog for cryin' out loud. Don't confuse mocassino with mocachino. God forbid.

We ran into the Sutor Mantellassi boutique and we went inside for a look around. No pictures allowed and the clerk told me that he had 'many, many products'. I have one pair of these shoes and they're nice. Big emphasis on the Norvegese welt, if that's your scene. At this store, Goodyear at 850 Euros and Norvegese at 950 Euro (all RTW). But I just don't get how the Italians market their stuff. You can get a better selection on EBAY or shopthefinest.com, a great outfit on EBAY based in Santa Monica, CA. If memory serves, virtualclotheshorse.com also stocks Mantellassi. I couldn't find the Stefanobi store on Via Roma (does anyone know where it is in Florence?). I love their models - again, based only off their web site. SM makes shoes under another brand and frequently these houses make shoes for other companies and I'm pretty sure Stefanobi is owned by the French ?? LMVH, LVMH, WTHO, ?Whatever works.

PLAN OF THE DAY

The best kept secret in Florence? Whilst heading over to Roberto Ugolini's bespoke shop, my daughter and I stumbled upon this shoe 'outlet' two bridges down from the Pointe Vecchio (Pointe alla Carraia). Mostly men's shoes with a small room for the ladies - but great VALUE. I don't know this Italian manufacurer -OtiSopse -but they are everywhere and popular. Obviously mass-produced, but the quality was good. The men's shoes were either 39 or 49 Euros. I picked up this pair of suede monk-straps (functional monk) for 39 Euros. Not bad for a daily beater pair of shoes. I threw out my worn pair of Bass suedes at the hotel so it was a one-for-one. We were hustled out promptly at 1:00pm for reposo. The guy running it - a cousin of Pauly Walnuts - grabbed my cash and made his pencil entry in a little blue book (obviously not the one that the Berlusconi government uses as tax revenue). Don't let the graffiti ruin the mood!

EASTER WEEKEND - FLORENCE 2010

Hi Everyone,

Just a few shots from Florence this weekend, which of course was packed for Easter. I finally went into the Ferragamo Museum - 5 Euros per person. Pretty impressive - my daughter loved it. No mens shoes, though. The main store - which I'm guessing is the flagship store, was somewhat lacking in the men's department. Honestly, the outlet store in San Marcos, Texas has more models. The clerk proudly pointed out that Ferragamo includes a metal shank in the shoe. "What if I'm climbing a ladder?" I asked. He stared back. "Then-a, you bend-a, it-a back-a." Ciao pal. Lavarazione smavarazione.

PLAN OF THE DAY

Man o man. I just finished watching Gamorra or Camorra depending on how you spell it. A movie about the mob in Naples. I needed a glass of sherry after watching this movie. Not so much the violence, which was tame by American standards, but the sense of desperation that Napolitans (Napolitians?) must have being under the thumb. Wow. But it's not all trash on the roadside, crime, housing projects, and illegal trash dumps. Naples has a proud sartorial tradition going way back. For shoes, consider Paolo Scarfora (photo above and last one below). What amazes me is their modern twist on old styles. Take for example the jodhpur boot. Scarfora's is incredibly elegant - a beautiful toe and sleek lines. I think the Edward Green is close, but we're back to that England v. Italy thing - quality versus style. Dunno. Have to give this one to the Italians.

EDWARD GREEN

JOHN LOBB

SCARFORA

PLAN OF THE DAY

I love my new Mantellassi ankle boots! Just got these from Ebay. The seller had been trying to move these for quite some time and finally dropped the price. I got them for $140.00. Not bad value for the lower Mantellassi line. It is very difficult for me to find my size with this brand, but I am looking forward to visiting the Mantellassi store next week in Florence. The fit is good, but not too much in the arch support area. The pics are a little deceiving - they are more of a rich chocolate brown suede. I put two coats of Kiwi silicon spray on them after having a few a few Italian beers (Peroni). So my aim was terrific. As with other things in life.

PLAN OF THE DAY

Let's give boots a break and get our eyes on this beautiful pair of Edward Green Bamford model.

This shoe reminds me of a Ferrari with its elegant lines and gorgeous pattern work. Perfect for any upscale, casual evening. I don't go in for tassels much, so this is one of my favorite casual models from EG.

PLAN OF THE DAY

Solebrothers,

Check out this pair of suede ankle boots from Riccardo Bestetti in Vigevano, Italy, not far from Milan. This guy started out making cowboy boots in Texas, a real artisan with incredible passion. His stuff is top shelf. I love the angles on this shoe (er, boot). I'm thinking for anything boots - hit this guy up first. He also has some great dress shoes and loafers. Enjoy. I'll be in Florence in two weeks for a bespoke shoe tour and a little siteseeing. Lots of pictures coming. Requests welcome. Ciao y'all. frecciabestetti.com

An American Classic - THE CHUKKA BOOT

Going through my wardrobe the other day, I realized I didn't have a good pair of knock-around boots that I could just throw on to take out the trash or play soccer with my son. The Chukka boot fits the bill! The word chukka is the term for a period in the game of Polo -each 'chukka' usually lasting 7 minutes. Like I know all about Polo. Hell, in Italy they eat horses. And cats aren't bad either.

OK - back to the boots. So what defines a chukka boot? Not a whole lot, really. To qualify, they should be ankle length and have two to three eyelets per shoe. More than three eyelets looks like a regular ankle boot to me. Variations of the boot were worn by British forces in North Africa during WWII. Did they have a few eyelets so they could get them on quicker when they were getting strafed by the Germans, Jah? I don't know. As for material, the sky is the limit. Suede, leather, cordovan, synthetic, etc. Think about what you want them for. I have a nice pair of Edward Green ankle boots (Silverstone) that I only wear for nice occasions. Are they chukka boots? Technically, yeah. I guess. But they sure don't present as chukkas. I want my chukkas to be able to take bad weather and a real pounding. So, if you are looking for something that does the job, consider Alden, Red Wing, or Rider Boot Company. They all make some awesome Chukkas. Some nice higher ups are the Edward Greens (Banbury model) and of course Vass from Budapest (first photo). These boots are pushing $1G but they are incredible. Not sure if I would go on a Boy Scout hike with those things, but some guys do. This is one boot where less may be more.

FAQs

1. How do I wear chukkas? They look great with jeans - with, ya know - boot cut.lol.

2. Can I wear chukkas with shorts? Yes! They look cool. Throw on a pair of grey socks too. Cool look.

3. Can I wear them with suits? Look - I'm a huge fan of ankle boots with suits ('booted and suited') but I'm thinking some chukka brands may be too outdoorsy for that. Perhaps with a tweed jacket or something like that. But then again the Vass chukka is pretty incredible but I can't see myself throwing on a pair to drink a beer with my neighbor over the fence.

The third photo is a pair of Navy Boondocker shoes. I remember my boondockers had three eyelets, as opposed to the four eyelets in the first picture (sorry for the quality but that was all I could find). Certainy post-Vietnam/Desert Storm era. Ah, my mispent youth. One decade I'm trying to kill Iraqis, the next decade I'm trying to save 'em. Post your chukka stories. Meanwhile, enjoy the pictures. Ciao.

P.S. Starting off with an Hungrian made shoe? I know. I know. But come on. Vass. I mean it's Vass for crying out loud.