PLAN OF THE DAY

Friends,

It's been a long time since I posted something. So thanks for your patience. My job takes me to some pretty weird places around the globe and I'm gone for stretches at a time. But..hey..I wanted to share this with you. Some time ago, I was looking for a good pair of hiking boots - I really don't have anything that...well..tough, if you know what I mean. So I called Leather Soul in Hawaii. The guy there suggested I get some Russell Mocassins. Russell what? This company has been making shoes and boots out of Wisconsin for a long time. I ordered the Premier Chukka Boot in Rust Chamois Leather . Ok. So you take their catalogue, follow the directions on how to measure your feet, submit this form with payment and voila...! I love these things and I get the feeling this is the beginning of beautiful music. Enjoy.

BESPOKE COBBLERS - FLORENCE

Some of you have visited these bespoke shoemakers so this is nothing new for you. But what I value is current information. In your bespoke decision, factor in travel costs, shipping and customs (if applicable). These cobblers frequently travel to big cities so you can get measured there and then do a follow-up visit for a fitting. Most of them want a fitting before they go smooth. Immediatley below:

Roberto Ugolini. Bespoke from 950 euros (lasts are included in this price as I am told. Shipping, etc. extra). Use common sense. Of course exotics are more - alligator, croc, etc. Very nice and accomodating. Reasonable deposit. I jut got a good vibe from this guy.Website does not do him justice. Sample bespoke models blew me away. Here he is working below with his Japanese apprentice (the other female apprentice was really pretty). Hey, you know.

Sample Ugolini bespoke:

Mannina is a Florence institution and many of its residents have been buying their shoes at his shop for decades. Like most, two locations - bespoke and TRW. In the retail shop, expect to pay around 295-395 Euros per pair RTW. Sadly, I didn't see anything I liked and I was ready to buy. Besides, the clerk in the retail (the son?) completely ignored us. Mr. Mannina had to step out and the Japanese apprentices couldn't give me a price for bespoke.

We ate at a great restaurant by Stefano Bemer's shop and had the chance to chat with him for awhile. Bespoke at 1800 euros plus 300 for lasts plus incidentals. He really wanted me to place an order right there, but honestly, again, this might seem strange, nothing inspired me and I had the money (for once in my life). This is a big business and I think personally I'm looking for a smaller, artisan-based experience. All of these shops were dead. I'm telling you, people are hurting. PLEASE post your Florence bespoke shoe experiences. I'm going with Ugolini.

MORE EASTER WEEKEND - FLORENCE 2010

I'm not too familiar with MORESCHI, perhaps you are and could add a litle something to this post. I see them sometimes on Ebay and I really loved this model at their boutique in Florence. Beautiful lines on this loafer. Sweet. Oh, uh, for the price list you'll need a dictionary. Hey, it's a free blog for cryin' out loud. Don't confuse mocassino with mocachino. God forbid.

We ran into the Sutor Mantellassi boutique and we went inside for a look around. No pictures allowed and the clerk told me that he had 'many, many products'. I have one pair of these shoes and they're nice. Big emphasis on the Norvegese welt, if that's your scene. At this store, Goodyear at 850 Euros and Norvegese at 950 Euro (all RTW). But I just don't get how the Italians market their stuff. You can get a better selection on EBAY or shopthefinest.com, a great outfit on EBAY based in Santa Monica, CA. If memory serves, virtualclotheshorse.com also stocks Mantellassi. I couldn't find the Stefanobi store on Via Roma (does anyone know where it is in Florence?). I love their models - again, based only off their web site. SM makes shoes under another brand and frequently these houses make shoes for other companies and I'm pretty sure Stefanobi is owned by the French ?? LMVH, LVMH, WTHO, ?Whatever works.

PLAN OF THE DAY

The best kept secret in Florence? Whilst heading over to Roberto Ugolini's bespoke shop, my daughter and I stumbled upon this shoe 'outlet' two bridges down from the Pointe Vecchio (Pointe alla Carraia). Mostly men's shoes with a small room for the ladies - but great VALUE. I don't know this Italian manufacurer -OtiSopse -but they are everywhere and popular. Obviously mass-produced, but the quality was good. The men's shoes were either 39 or 49 Euros. I picked up this pair of suede monk-straps (functional monk) for 39 Euros. Not bad for a daily beater pair of shoes. I threw out my worn pair of Bass suedes at the hotel so it was a one-for-one. We were hustled out promptly at 1:00pm for reposo. The guy running it - a cousin of Pauly Walnuts - grabbed my cash and made his pencil entry in a little blue book (obviously not the one that the Berlusconi government uses as tax revenue). Don't let the graffiti ruin the mood!

EASTER WEEKEND - FLORENCE 2010

Hi Everyone,

Just a few shots from Florence this weekend, which of course was packed for Easter. I finally went into the Ferragamo Museum - 5 Euros per person. Pretty impressive - my daughter loved it. No mens shoes, though. The main store - which I'm guessing is the flagship store, was somewhat lacking in the men's department. Honestly, the outlet store in San Marcos, Texas has more models. The clerk proudly pointed out that Ferragamo includes a metal shank in the shoe. "What if I'm climbing a ladder?" I asked. He stared back. "Then-a, you bend-a, it-a back-a." Ciao pal. Lavarazione smavarazione.

PLAN OF THE DAY

Man o man. I just finished watching Gamorra or Camorra depending on how you spell it. A movie about the mob in Naples. I needed a glass of sherry after watching this movie. Not so much the violence, which was tame by American standards, but the sense of desperation that Napolitans (Napolitians?) must have being under the thumb. Wow. But it's not all trash on the roadside, crime, housing projects, and illegal trash dumps. Naples has a proud sartorial tradition going way back. For shoes, consider Paolo Scarfora (photo above and last one below). What amazes me is their modern twist on old styles. Take for example the jodhpur boot. Scarfora's is incredibly elegant - a beautiful toe and sleek lines. I think the Edward Green is close, but we're back to that England v. Italy thing - quality versus style. Dunno. Have to give this one to the Italians.

EDWARD GREEN

JOHN LOBB

SCARFORA

PLAN OF THE DAY

I love my new Mantellassi ankle boots! Just got these from Ebay. The seller had been trying to move these for quite some time and finally dropped the price. I got them for $140.00. Not bad value for the lower Mantellassi line. It is very difficult for me to find my size with this brand, but I am looking forward to visiting the Mantellassi store next week in Florence. The fit is good, but not too much in the arch support area. The pics are a little deceiving - they are more of a rich chocolate brown suede. I put two coats of Kiwi silicon spray on them after having a few a few Italian beers (Peroni). So my aim was terrific. As with other things in life.